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The flavour of La Rioja

The flavour of La Rioja through the Way of Saint James

The Way of Saint James is a journey of self-knowledge but also invites the pilgrim to know the culture and flavours of the lands through which it passes. Previous training and nutrition are the keys to facing the different stages that lead to Santiago de Compostela.

On their way through La Rioja, pilgrims can recover their strength with the traditional gastronomy of these lands. Throughout La Rioja, it is very typical to have an aperitif before a meal. Pickles, chorizo sausage and olives are, together with wine, the main protagonists.

Seven rivers are born in La Rioja mountains, which in turn form seven valleys. In gastronomic terms, La Rioja can be divided into three territories: La Rioja Alta, through which the Way of Saint James runs, is strongly influenced by the communities of northern Spain and Burgos; La Rioja Baja enjoys large orchards with seasonal products; and La Tierra de Cameros where pastoral stews abound, and products related to pork and sheep.

La Rioja Alta and Logroño

Logroño, as the capital of the Autonomous Community, is the gastronomic centre of La Rioja. In the city, you can taste all the typical dishes of La Rioja. Those with the surname “a la riojana” (Rioja-style) stand out. Cod and Rioja-style potatoes are the most typical, although snails are also popular.

In Laurel Street, there are countless establishments where you can enjoy “pinchos” and “tapas”. Typical of Logroño are “caparrones”, a type of red legume that is usually eaten with fried onion and pepper or accompanied by pieces of lamb, chorizo, and bacon.

Caparrones from La Rioja

Caparrones from La Rioja. Photo: J. Blanco.

The tenth stage of the Way of Saint James begins in the town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. In this town, every May 12, the Brotherhood of Santo Domingo de la Calzada worships the town’s patron saint. On this celebration, the people of Calzada eat chickpea stew with mutton. Traditionally, the Brotherhood oversaw cooking and distributing this stew among the villagers and pilgrims who came to the town.

Santo Domingo also has a typical sweet with a long history: the “ahorcadillos”. This puff pastry filled with almond cream or angel hair has the shaped of a scallop. In the centre of the “ahorcadillo” is the figure of a hanged man.

The Wine Route of Rioja Alta

La Rioja was the first region in Spain to obtain the Denomination of Origin for its wines. Rioja wines enjoy great recognition both nationally and internationally. In La Rioja, wine has become a sign of identity and part of its culture.

The region has more than five hundred wineries, eighty of which can be visited. Furthermore, despite being off the Pilgrim’s Way, pilgrims who wish to get to know the wine tourism areas in depth can visit the Vivanco Museum of Wine Culture.

The city of Haro is the centre of this route. The oldest wineries in Spain are concentrated in its wine cellar quarter, or barrio de la estación.  According to their ageing process, Rioja wines can be Guarantee of Origin, wines that have not undergone the ageing process; Crianza wines, wines that have spent at least one-year ageing in oak casks; Reserve wines, wines with a minimum ageing period of one year in casks and two years in the bottle; and Gran Reserva wines, large vintages that have matured for at least two years in oak casks and three years in the bottle.

La Rioja Baja

Wine is the perfect accompaniment to Rioja gastronomy. La Rioja Baja has its wine route, and in these lands, fruit is the best ally. Among the most highly valued products of the area are the pears from Rincón de Soto with Designation of Origin.

One of the most typical desserts, which perfectly combines both ingredients, is pears in wine. The peeled fruit is cooked in red wine with sugar, aniseed, lemon peel and a cinnamon stick.

La Rioja Baja has been awarded the title of Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, due to its sustainable use of natural resources. Its mild climate makes it a privileged area for vine growing. Among its red wines, the Tempranillo variety predominates.

The Land of Cameros

The Land of Cameros is in the south-central part of La Rioja and is far from the well-known wine routes. Its gastronomy is dominated by stews, casseroles and pork and sheep meat.

Chuletillas al sarmiento

Chuletillas al sarmiento.

“Chuletillas al Sarmiento” is one of the typical dishes. The main ingredient is lamb chops cooked over vine shoots. When you roast the meat in the dry vine branch, it becomes impregnated with the unmistakable flavour of the vine shoots. This dish is very typical at festivals and large celebrations.

Due to its sheep tradition, another of the area’s star products is its cheese. Cameros cheese is made from goat’s milk and is fresh. It is characterised by its whitish colour, soft texture, and salty flavour.

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