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Monastery of Santa María la Real in La Rioja

The Romanesque in La Rioja

After leaving Navarra behind, the Way of Saint James enters the Autonomous Community of La Rioja. At the end of the seventh stage, the pilgrim arrives in Logroño. Along its route through La Rioja, the Pilgrim’s Way is home to great monuments typical of Romanesque art from the 11th and 12th centuries.

This art is based on the crystallisation of the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela and the economic wealth it brought with it. Romanesque art is the first international European art, as it emerged simultaneously in various regions of Europe.

Despite this internationalisation, the different territories developed characteristics of their own. They were influenced by the history of the region at the time. In the 11th century, the Iberian Peninsula was divided into two. In the north, the Christian kingdoms were settled. Meanwhile, in the south, the Muslim invaders were still resisting.

Christian civilisation inherited its artistic bases from the Romans and Visigoths. However, the south was heavily influenced by the artistic styles of the Arabs. That is why pilgrims can only find examples of pure Romanesque in the north of the peninsula.

La Rioja in the 11th century and Romanesque art

The territory of La Rioja was conquered in the 8th century by the Muslims, and they give to it the name of Náxara. It was not until the year 924 that the King of Pamplona, Sancho Garcés I, reconquered it and ceded its lands to his son García Sánchez I, who founded the Kingdom of Nájera.

During the 11th century, it became part of the Kingdom of Pamplona, with Nájera as its capital. However, marital disagreements between Doña Urraca of León and Alfonso I of Aragon led to the region becoming part of the Kingdom of Castile.

Therefore, Romanesque art in La Rioja shares its history with the Kingdom of Navarra, Aragón, and Castilla. In all of them, Romanesque was an art at the service of the church. Monasteries and cathedrals were the main constructions.

Church of San Bartolomé

The Church of San Bartolomé is in Logroño. It is the oldest church in the city and its construction dates to the 12th century. It is in original Romanesque style, something that, despite later alterations, can still be seen in the chevet and the initial part of the tower.

Church of San Bartolomé in Logroño.

Church of San Bartolomé in Logroño.

Monastery of Santa María la Real

Following the route of the Way of Saint James, the pilgrim arrives at the town of Nájera, where the Monastery of Santa María la Real is. The pilgrim can enjoy this monastery which dates to the 11th century.

Legend has it that in the year 1052, King García Sánchez III went out hunting near his castle and found a cave that housed an altar with the Virgin and Child. It was then that he ordered this monastery to be built. Once it was standing, it housed the mausoleum of the former kings of the kingdom of Nájera-Pamplona.

Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Under the shadow of the Way of Saint James, the pilgrim will find the Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. It is reached at the end of the eighth stage and dates from 1106. The original temple was Romanesque in style, but over time it underwent several stylistic reforms. Traces of this style can still be seen in its chevet.

Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Photo: J. A. Gil Martínez.

Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Photo: J. A. Gil Martínez.

Inside it houses the remains of Santo Domingo himself. In addition, next to the saint’s tomb, there is a henhouse with a cockerel and a hen. This tradition dates to the 15th century and has its origin in a legend related to the Pilgrim’s Way to Santiago de Compostela.

The story tells that a family of German pilgrims stayed in Santo Domingo after a long stage. At the hostel, the son of that family was unjustly accused of theft and sent to the gallows. However, legend has it that the young man entrusted himself to Santo Domingo and did not die.

When the family went to lay their son’s body to rest, they realised that he had not died. Quickly, they went to inform the mayor. He was eating chicken and was assured that the young man was as much alive as the chicken he was about to eat. After this, the animal began to run around the table.

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